After-Market parts lessons and observations
The after-market parts industry is big in the off-road motorcycle world – really big.
When I bought my first dirt bike in 2004 I didn’t realize this. But it didn’t take long to start noticing the many ways my friends were modifying their bikes with after-market pipes, tanks, jetting, handlebars, brush guards, big-bore kits, and other parts.
I soon found things I needed to “mod” on my bike. I learned that a new bike needs ergonomic adjustments. Riding up on the pegs is hard on the back for a guy over 6-feet tall that has to hunch over to reach the handlebars. It wasn’t long before I was buying after-market bars and clamps to raise the handlebar height so I could ride comfortably up on the pegs.
That was just the beginning of my modification hobby. Since then I have bought five additional off-road bikes for myself and family and I’ve installed some after-market parts on each one. Consequently, I’ve learned a few things about after-market parts. I’ve decided to write them down as well as feedback on the parts I’ve bought in hopes it may help save a fellow rider some frustration, time and money.
Installation Instructions
The first lesson I learned is that most after-market part manufacturers don’t spend money on competent tech writers. The installation instructions are generally vague, short, poorly written, badly formatted and punctuated, and have few, if any, pictures or illustrations. Installation can cause a lot of frustration as you read and re-read instructions trying to figure out what the hell they mean. I swear some of them skip steps and assume you’ll just naturally know the steps in-between. Once you figure out the riddle to installing a part, you realize it wouldn’t take a lot of effort to write better instructions, so why they don’t I can’t understand.
Bars and Clamps
As I learned with my first dirt bike, raising the handlebars above stock height is a great ergonomic improvement. There are a few ways to do this. One is to buy higher bend handlebars. Another is to buy riser clamps. Installing a steering stabilizer with an under-bar mount can also raise them.
Because I like to raise my bars really high, I generally do a combination of high bend bars and riser clamps. Here is my feedback on the bars and clamps I’ve tried:
- Renthal bars – I like Renthal Fatbars and they make a broad selection of bends and heights. I usually get the RC High bar that has a 119mm height. I’ve had nothing but good experiences with Renthal and I’ve put them on three of my bikes – a Honda CRF250X, a KTM 200XCW, and a Suzuki DRZ400S.
- ProTaper bars – I’ve also tried ProTaper bars. They have a fat bar style as well with different heights and bends to choose from. I had no complaints with ProTaper and found them to be as functional and strong as the Renthal bars. I just had a hard time finding their tallest bar model and had to settle for a slightly shorter bar when I installed them on my KTM 450EXC.
- ProTaper riser clamps – I’ve bought a couple of sets of ProTaper riser clamps to combine with high bars and maximize overall handlebar height. The are easy to install, have good instructions, and they fit nicely into the stock clamps of my Honda and Suzuki. They both raise the bars and convert the stock 7/8th clamp to fat bar size. However, my KTMs had proprietary bar clamps and the ProTaper clamps would not fit on the KTM’s stock clamps.
Steering Stabilizers
- Scotts Steering Stabilizer - I’ve bought one steering stabilizer and that was a Scotts. It was fairly easy to install and it took me about two hours. The installation instructions were excellent for an after-market part: color photos with detailed instructions. The key lesson I can share about installing a stabilizer is make damn sure you have the front wheel firmly secured so it will not roll at all once you take the top triple-clamp off. The instructions stated this clearly and warned that the forks can “walk away” from you if you don’t. I thought I had my front wheel secured well enough, but I found I did not and the forks slipped on me and the bearings came out of the steering column. This made it much more difficult to get the triple-clamp back on. Had I not blown that step installation would have gone much smoother.
Gas Tanks
- IMS – I bought an IMF tank for my 2004 Honda CRF250X. It was a four gallon tank that replaced the stock shrouds with side wings of the tank. Therefore it had three petcocks to draw the fuel from the shrouds and tank into the carburetor. The installation instructions were pretty poor; not much more than one run-on paragraph with a drawing showing how to connect the fuel line to all three petcocks. The drawing was obviously hand drawn, and it looked like a Junior High shop student drew it. When I got the tank on, I found it leaked from both shroud petcocks. They would not seal completely. I sent the tank back to IMS with a letter detailing my disappointment in their quality control. IMS sent me a replacement tank with no reply to my letter. When I got the second tank put together I found it didn’t leak from the shroud petcocks. Instead it leaked from the main petcock in the bottom center of the tank. This was because the petcock would not fit flush with the tank. Disgruntled and not wanting to send another tank back, I improvised a cork gasket to seal the leak. Nonetheless, I was not very pleased with my IMS experience.
- Clarke – I bought a 3.1 gallon Clarke tank for my 2005 KTM 450EXC. I was very pleased with the Clarke. The instructions were easy to understand, the tank installed easily, and it did not leak. When I get around to buying an after-market tank for my DRZ400 it will be a Clarke.
Mufflers and Pipes
- FMF – I bought an FMF Powercore slip-on muffler for my Honda CRF250X. Of all the power mods I did on my Honda – cutting the air box, rejetting and modifying the stock pipe – putting on the FMF pipe gave it the biggest boost. It was a noticeable difference in horsepower and torque. The FMF was pretty easy to install and had decent instructions. It didn’t fit real precisely, but well enough to get on. Though a bit spendy it was a worthwhile upgrade.
- ProCircuit – I bought a ProCircuit T4 exhaust system for my daughter’s 2006 Kawasaki KLX125L. It gave a nice boost in low end torque to a mild horsepower bike. It also transformed it from being a quiet stock bike to sounding like a racing 4-stroke. We called it her “mini 450” because when you heard it coming through the trees, it sounded like a much bigger bike coming. The ProCircuit pipe was easy to install and I’d give it a big thumbs up. It was the only pipe I could find that was made for the KLX125\DRZ125 that was readily available.
Jetting Kits
- JD Jetting – I got a JD Jetting kit for my Honda CRF250X. I was impressed with the kit. It had all the jets you needed plus a couple of spares for different elevations. It was my first time changing jets in a carburetor so it was nice that the instructions were easy to follow. However, you need to read up on jetting kits before you buy them. Some require additional modifications to your bike in order to function as designed. That was the case with my Honda. The air box opening had to be cut out wider and the stock pipe had to have some cutting done too.
Hand Guards
- Acerbis – I am a big fan of Acerbis hand guards. I’ve put a set on every bike I’ve owned. The installation instructions aren’t that great and I had some minor problems getting the first set installed on my CRF250X. Thanks to the internet, though, I figured it out. Once you put on one set of Acerbis it’s easy to do from then on and I haven’t had any problems installing them since. Acerbis makes a few models of hand guards. I always buy the metal frame ones that connect to the end and middle of the handlebars. They are very durable and hold up against the brush and tree limbs you come up against trail riding.
Miscellaneous
- Works Connection skid plate – I put a Works skid plate on my CRF250X. Functionally it worked fine, but the installation was not as easy as it should have been. The brackets that hold the plate on were not easy to get on between the frame and the engine and then line-up with the bolt holes on the plate. The instructions were vague and not of a lot of help.
- Pro-Moto Billet rack – I got a PMB rack for my DRZ400S. I’ve been very pleased with it. It was easy to install, well designed to fit like it should, and the instructions and illustrations were clear. They thought the design of the rack out well. I like the holes around the rack frame that allow you to easily install items like luggage boxes on the rack.
Filed under: The Dirt Biker Chronicles on June 26th, 2009 | No Comments »
Japanese bike. When you look at pictures of these low-priced bikes, they’re good looking bikes. They look similar to the Japanese and European bikes.


As we got down to the valley floor, though, we came into a stand of burned trees and the number of fallen trees increased. We were still high enough to see to the end of the valley and beyond and we could see the end of the burnt area about a half-mile ahead. We believed that once we cut our way through it, we’d start making good time again.


Our trail riding pals Mark and Tresa, avid racers, started an e-mail thread about racing some enduros this year. I was familiar with the Idaho City ISDE Qualifier and had ridden much of that course trail riding. I like the technical single-track terrain much better than the open, fast terrain desert racing offers. An enduro seemed like the race for me, if there ever was such a thing.
before we decided to go.
would really occur.
KTM is the only major manufacturer making a two-stroke designed for trail riding, and the XCW models are wildly popular among trail riders. All of this has only fueled the smack talk from Dave. No way he will admit the superiority of KTM’s off-road bikes.
hadn’t been cleared of fallen trees for years. We searched but could not find any sign of the trail’s existence. So instead we took a forest road to the Warm Springs Saddle Trail #347 in hopes of taking it to Hard Butte Trail #344, which would tie us into Buck Lake Trail #162 and take us home. No such luck! We could not find Trail #344 either; another overgrown trail that had been devoured by the forest.
technical riding, the forest is hands down the better riding. The forest has every imaginable obstacle: rocks, trees, roots, creeks, and logs to name a few. And don’t forget the forests are spread across mountains. That means narrow side-hill, “goat” trails running along deep ravines. It means steep, tight, switchbacks going up and down. It means riding sections where a mistake can mean serious injury or death.